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Une nouveau drame sur le Nanga Parbat

9 mars 2019.

Les corps des deux alpinistes ont été localisés par Alex Txikon. Ils se trouvent sur l'éperon Mummery vers 5900 mètres. Une photo sans équivoque à largement circulé sur internet montrant les deux alpinistes et leur tente. Leur récupération est impossible à cause du danger d'avalanches.

6 mars 2019

Hier l'équipe de sauvetage est redescendue au camp de base sans trouver aucune trace des alpinistes. Les recherches sont définitivement arrêtées.

4 mars 2019

Depuis hier Ali Sadpara et 4 Espagnols ont entamé des recherches aux environs du Camp 2. C'est la dernière chance de retrouver les deux alpinistes en perdition. Les risques d'avalanche sont considérables. Sources FB.

3 mars 2019

Un peu plus d'un an après l'opération Mackiewicz-Revol une nouveau drame se déroule actuellement sur le versant de « La montagne tueuse ». L'Italien Daniele Nardi et le Britannique Tom Ballard se trouvent en difficultés sur l'éperon Mummery pendant une tentative d'ouverture d'un nouvel itinéraire.

Les deux alpinistes disposent de téléphone satellitaire mais depuis le 24 février ils ne donnent aucun signe de vie. Une action de sauvetage improvisée s'organise. Muhammad Ali Sadpara, le co-auteur de la première ascension hivernale du Nanga Parbat a proposé son aide.

Alex Txikon a également proposé son aide. Il participe actuellement à une expédition hivernale internationale au K2. Txikon avec ses trois compagnons envisage d'atteindre le camp de base du Nanga Parbat avec l'aide de l'armée pakistanaise. Alex propose l'utilisation des drones pour localiser les deux alpinistes. Dans le passé un drone polonais a permis le sauvetage de Rick Allen sur les pentes du Broad Peak, un autre a acheminé les médicament pour Janusz Golab pendant l'expédition polonaise au K2.

Pour le moment les conditions météorologiques rendent impossible une quelconque action de sauvetage. Ali Sadpara a effectué le vol de reconnaissance à bord d'un hélicoptère d'Askari Aviation. Le sauveteurs ont localisé la tente supposée de la cordée en perdition mais n'ont pas pu effectuer le largage de l'alpiniste pakistanais. Karim Hayat, un autre alpiniste pakistanais est également en route pour le camp de base.

Hormis la météo un autre problème complique l'acheminement de l'équipe de Txikon : la situation politique entre l'Inde est le Pakistan est de nouveau tendue ce qui a provoqué la fermeture de l'espace aérien dans les environs du glacier de Baltoro.

Selon les observateurs polonais les chances de deux alpinistes égarés sont très minces.

Hier matin (2 mars) l'ambassadeur d'Italie au Pakistan, Stefano Pontecorvo déclarait : « Les nouvelles ne sont pas bonnes. Il neige sur le K2, nous espérons que le temps deviendra meilleur ce qui permettra aux hélicoptères de décoller. »

De la part de Shamyl de l'Ambassade du Pakistan en France

03/03/2019 à 13:07 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Very unfortunate news. Due to heavy snowfall short of Nanga Parbat, Pakistan Army Aviation formation could not be drop the four Spanish rescuers at Nanga Parbat. Given the weather situation and security risks involved, the pilots decided to land at Jaglot and have now decided to return to Skardu. The Nanga Parbat drop off would be executed tomorrow morning now, weather permitting.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.
03/03/2019 à 13:56 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *could not drop
03/03/2019 à 14:43 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Pakistan Army Aviation pilots were on standby since this morning to pick up the Spanish rescuers from K2 Base Camp and drop them off on Nanga Parbat. As soon as the route weather cleared up, they took off from Skardu AAB around 1230hrs PST. They passed via Paiju and started their flight from Paiju to K2 BC around 1310hrs. The weather from Paiju to Concordia was quite difficult with very low clouds. The pilots took the risk because of the importance of the mission and flew very slowly during this stretch. The low cloud cover improved significantly when the formation reached Concordia and entered Godwin Austin glacier.

Having reached K2 BC, the four Spanish rescuers were picked up with their gear and brought to Paiju. After a brief stopover in Paiju, the two Écureuil B3s brought the rescuers to Skardu AAB.

After a brief stopover in Skardu, the formation started their flight towards Nanga Parbat. Time being of essence, the pilots wanted to drop off the rescue team today on Nanga Parbat and took the risk of flying in the overcast weather. Unfortunately, around 8kms short of Nanga Parbat, the cloud cover was extremely low (around 3000m). Given that Nanga Parbat BC is much higher, the pilots after discussing with rescuers decided to turn around and head towards Jaglot. After checking the weather again at Nanga Parbat, the formation decided to fly back towards Skardu given the security risks involved in attempting to land at Nanga Parbat is such low visibility.

Pakistan Army Aviation would be attempting to drop off the Spanish rescue team tomorrow morning. The team includes Alix Txikon, Felix Criado, Ignacio de Zuloaga and the Dr. Josep Sanchis.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.
03/03/2019 à 14:52 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: ?VID-20190303-WA0004.mp4 (fichier joint)
03/03/2019 à 14:52 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: ?VID-20190303-WA0003.mp4 (fichier joint)
Footage taken by the Spanish rescuers on board Pakistan Army Aviation's Écureuil B3 showing the weather around 8kms from Nanga Parbat BC where it was decided to turn back. You can see the extremely cloud cover and very low visibility conditions.
04/03/2019 à 06:55 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Pakistan Army Aviation pilots are on standby since this morning to drop off the Spanish rescue team to Nanga Parbat. The pilots would try to drop off the team at Camp-I, although it would depend on the conditions up there. Unfortunately there are very low clouds/low visibility conditions in Skardu and along the route. The formation has been waiting for the weather to clear up to take off.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.
04/03/2019 à 07:09 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* The visibility conditions have improved just a little bit around Skardu and the formation has decided to take off from Skardu and go to Jaglot. They would reassess the situation in Jaglot to make the final approach plan.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.
04/03/2019 à 07:17 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Confirming two Écureuil B3s with Spanish rescue team on board have just taken off from Skardu on their way to Jaglot in tough weather conditions. Bidding them Godspeed.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.
04/03/2019 à 10:02 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Confirming successful drop off of the Spanish rescue team on Camp-I.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.
04/03/2019 à 12:15 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: *Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Two Écureuil B3s of Pakistan Army Aviation took off from Skardu AAB at 1104hrs PST in difficult weather conditions around Skardu. Fortunately the weather was much better outside the Skardu Valley. The formation passed by Jaglot before heading to Nanga Parbat. Weather had turned for good by that time in that area.

Arriving at Nanga Parbat, the two Écureuils climbed to Camp-I and spent 10 minutes up there to reconnoiter a landing spot at Camp-I. The formation then landed at Base Camp dropping off the Spanish rescuers. The two helis then took Alex Txikon and Rehmat Ullah Baig from the Base Camp and climbed back up to Camp-I. Since Rehmat was with Daniele and Tom during the initial phase of the expedition, he was able to point out the exact route on the Mummery Spur to Alex and the pilots. The formation then started an aerial reconnaissance with Alex on board and searched the area for around 50 minutes. They went up to 7100m before climbing down to Camp-I. Unfortunately no sign of climbers or a camp site was found during the aerial reconnaissance. The formation then dropped off Alex Txikon on Camp-I and returned to Base Camp before heading back to the base.

Ali Sadpara has climbed up to Camp-I to join up with Alex Txikon. Alex Txikon has a drone with him which he intends to reconnoiter the area to locate Daniele and Tom.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

*SITREP ALEX TXIKON:*

[04/03, 2:44 pm]: 1st Alex Txikon report from his sat phone: We arrived at the camp we are fixing on the plateaux between camp 1 and 2 at 4850m. Wonderful weather. Very warm and avalanches' danger increases. With helicopter we did a recon very close to the mountain, along Kinshofer route and then on Mummery Spur and the area of the glacier between camp 3 and our landing point. We reached an approximative altitude of 7100m. Unfortunately no traces of our friends. Ignacio, who is climber and engineer is preparing the drones to search carefully the traces and the trajectory of fall. Each possibility will be explored.

Alex is going towards camp 2 with another climber.
04/03/2019 à 12:18 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: ?VID-20190304-WA0000.mp4 (fichier joint)
Tough weather conditions flying out of Skardu valley. Footage courtesy Spanish rescue team.
04/03/2019 à 12:23 - +33 6 85 36 49 09: ?VID-20190304-WA0001.mp4 (fichier joint)
Alex Txikon being dropped off at Camp-I of Nanga Parbat after aerial reconnaissance of Mummery Spur. Shamyl.

Actu proposée par Piotr PACKOWSKI

Mise en ligne le lundi 04 mars 2019 à 14:58:41

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